第1201期:富兰克林吃豆腐 – Legend of Chinese Tofu

美国有个奇人 —— Benjamin Franklin(本杰明·富兰克林),是美国人心目中的一个奇才。

此公堪称真正的多面手,多才多艺,a polymath,他被公认的身份有:writer, printer, political philosopher, politician, Freemason, postmaster, scientist, inventor, humorist, civic activist, statesman, and diplomat.

能力和成就这么全面的多面手即便放在整个人类历史上也不多见,文艺复兴时期的达文西(列昂纳多·达·芬奇)也算一个,印度诗人泰戈尔(Rabindranath Tagore)大概也算一个。

很多人上小学时都学过一个故事,讲的是富兰克林在一个雷雨天放风筝,从而发明了避雷针(lightening rod)。

今天要讲的是这位美国奇人跟豆腐的故事。

豆腐的英文是什么?一般人大概都知道两种说法:bean curd;tofu. 

Bean curd是意译,bean指的是食物的原料是豆类,curd是凝乳,形容的是豆腐的形态。

Tofu是音译,这个英语单词直接取自日语“豆腐”这两个汉字的日语发音 – Tofu.

日本古代时把这种中国传来的食物叫做“唐腐”,读作 tofu. 后来写作“豆腐”或“荳腐”,都读作 tofu. 

这就是英语 tofu一词的由来。

近代,Tofu这种食物随着中国移民的脚步也传到了美国。富兰克林常被称为美国第一个豆腐爱好者,据说他对豆腐在美国的流行起了关键作用。

1770年,富兰克林给一个植物学家朋友(John Bartram)写了封信,向他推荐这种来自中国的神奇的健康食品。(信件正文附文末)

富兰克林当时把豆腐叫做 taufu,解释说这是一种类似奶酪的 Chinese garavances (中国豆制品),他以为这种东西是 chickpea(鹰嘴豆)做的。

*garavances 这个词你查字典可能查不到,是 calavance的旧写法,意思是food made from beans. 

有这么一位名人大力推广,豆腐这种东方美食在美国很快就被人们接受并喜欢了。


附:Benjamin Franklin’s letter to John Bartram

My ever dear Friend:

I received your kind letter of Nov. 29, with the parcel of seeds, for which I am greatly obliged to you. I cannot make you Ben Tofuadequate returns, in kind; but I send you, however, some of the true Rhubarb seed, which you desire. I had it from Mr. Inglish, who lately received a medal, of the Society of Arts, for propagating it.

I send, also, some green dry Pease, highly esteemed here as the best for making pease soup; and also some Chinese Garavances, with Father Navaretta’s account of the universal use of a cheese made of them, in China, which so excited my curiosity, that I caused inquiry to be made of Mr. Flint, who lived many years there, in what manner the cheese was made; and I send you his answer. I have since learnt, that some runnings of salt (I suppose rennet) is put into water when the meal is in it, to turn it to curds.

I think we have Garavances with us; but I know not whether they are the same with these, which actually came from China, and are what the Tau-fu is made of. They are said to be of great increase.

I shall inquire of Mr. Collinson for your Journal. I see that of East Florida is printed with Stork’s Account. My love to good Mrs. Bartram, and your children. With sincere esteem, I am ever, my dear friend, Yours affectionately,

B. FRANKLIN